In this video we will make a miniature stone arch bridge in H0 scale the bridge is engraved in low-cost XPS board we will build it using a modular approach so this can really be fitted onto any model railroad or gaming board [Music] [Music] This video is brought to you in cooperation with ONE87 precision model engineering. I’ve had for many years this wall which is actually covering the mainland which is running behind it I wanted to open up and I try to help different shapes of the bridge pillars I have decided to go for stone arch bridge but anyway wanted it to be kind of light and tall so I ended up with this design I use styrofoam in this project as well as many other projects this is also called XPS board it follows the european standard EN 13164. It’s commonly used in houses as a ground isolation board now I slice this using a steel phone slicer two six millimeter these sliced sheets are used for the background wall and the floor in the tunnel I’m putting up a link in the right hand corner how to build a really cheap and simple styrofoam cutter let’s start with the back walls the back wall will host these twelve statues the waiting statues which will be made from edge of scale model figures I’m planning to make cutouts in which they will stand my approach to this will be to cut out the entire capped out using a scalpel based on a paper template I make I removed that and I engrave it on the side I first engraved the back wall in the cutout using very small stones like this and then I engraved the frame I then below the back wall in the cutout using PVA glue wood glue to the frame and I keep it so with the back wall is recessed as much as possible in the styrofoam Yeah left that dry. I’ll now let’s engrave the back wall the stones in the back wall will be about six millimeter tall and nine millimeter wide so I’m starting by engraving all of the horizontal stone lines which are with six millimeter spacing this is much easier to do without the cutouts in place since they will be sticking out from the wall then it’s time to do the engraving with a little tool or a screwdriver with all of the stones in place I now glue the cutouts back into the wall then I glued them so that they will be sticking out slightly over the wall surface and give a bit of contrast now the wall is kind of tall so I want to divide it I’m cutting apart the wall approximately on half and I cut out one row of stones which I will glue back in a slightly elevated or out sticking position so the wall will look a bit more interesting I use a spacer just a wooden stick a head lying around which was about three millimeters thick I apply that row of stones on top of that wooden stick glue it in place using PVA glue and once it’s in place I just pull that wooden stick out okay I think I’m quite happy now with the design of the wall so let’s smear some plaster off this is a sand based plaster used for redecoration at home. The purpose here is to fill all of the joints and cracks between the stones with this plaster and also inside the cut-outs and everywhere so it kind of fills all of the cracks and joints. This plaster will later absorb the black wash. The paint in the black wash very beautifully and give a nice contrast. All of the plaster that is still on top of the stones are removed using a wetted sponge. Just clean entire surface with the wetted sponge. All right! Now whilst the back wall is drying we’ll get started on the pillars and the arches. I first make templates from ceral packages This is paper templates. My bridge has an incline, so the joints in between the arches will not be perfectly 90-degree, but something else. This needs to be tested and measured. I put that paper template on a four millimeter wide wood board (Plywood). I taped over the cutting line. This is to avoid cracking wise sawing. Then the tape can be removed again. Now we only need to make two hole in each and four pins to hold these templates in place on the styrofoam board edges while cutting. The styrofoam is just cut blocks like this. All right! Let’s apply these templates on the sides of the styrofoam blocks like this with the templates in place we’re ready to cut the cutter amusing consists from three pieces of wood and account all wire connected to a battery charger this is all you need to make kind of cutting like this let’s connect the power down down work cutting arches in total four of them for my bridge project Now remove the templates found we’re ready to sand it slightly. You’ll see it has the kind of fibers plastic fibers on the surface and they need to be removed ahead of the engraving work. I just sand it lightly and avoid pressing these fiber into the material surface, because that will give the surface marks. I then put all of the arches in place just to check that I’ve got it all right and before right and get started on the engraving then graving is started by making that arch then after that I engrave all of the stones around it for this engraving I prefer to use a knife that makes the stone look a bit sharper in the edges and make them more like a precision cut once that stone arch is in place I first engraved horizontal lines of stone in the arches and on the individual stones with the engraving tool alright now it’s time to engrave the ceiling use that support which is seen inside the tunnel which is underneath the bridge I start with the edge here too then before I make the horizontal lines for the rest of the stones alright now it’s in place let’s do the rest once you have your speed up it’s about to make about thousand stones an hour so a large engraving project like this twenty-eight thousand stones takes about 30 hours to complete then it’s the assembly and painting time of course but overall it this is a large project and you’re typically gonna make one of these on your lay up unless your layout is very large so it’s not much of a big deal and hey the bridge will be there for a while and look very creative the sound plaster which is on the surface is wiped off using a wet sponge here are the wooden templates for the bridge pillars I prepared them in the same way as the arches so I cut them out and made whole for the fixing needles or fixing pins like this so I apply one on each side of the styrofoam blocks and then I just cut with my styrofoam cutter like this alright and here’s the pillars the only thing that remains now in the pillar is the cutout for the bridge span the arches it is kind of a just a cutout like this we’ll make two simple wooden templates for those as well when I cut them out using the styrofoam cutter now time for engraving the engraving of the pillars worked just the same way as all the others I start with this carrying stone arch the edge stones I do them first before I start with stone walls around it all right now there are finished with engraving only thing that remains now is that I thought of having smaller stones inside so I make them with a small engraving tool and I make them only 3 millimeter tall each stone will then be engraved to width of about 5 millimeter for that I use my small engraving tool which I fold it together from a sheet metal part of brass and it’s really fast and simple to just do the engraving with the plaster in place. it’s time to paint I do that from white black and burnt umber the white and black I mix those two first to get a good grade tone once I have the desired gray tone I just add a bit of that burnt umber to give the gray a warmer tone more natural tone once the gray paint has dry the gray paint that covers everything currently then I start to paint details here I propane torches with a kind of light gray color and then I continue to add no brownish reddish or blackish stones in the wall now it can look a bit worrying at this point but we will have a significant amount of black wash over this and that wash will like fade all of the differences in the world so it will look very nice I promise you that the washes to port black paint acrylic paint and eight port water I cover everything with this black wash the back wall the pillars and the bridge spans once dry it takes on a much lighter tone than what it looks original II when you’re applying the black wash when all of the parts has dried properly it’s time to dry brush on some white acrylic paint the purpose for this is to highlight the contour and the texture on the wall it can also be used to get a more bright tone or light gray tone if you think it became too black from the wash with all this in place I start to assemble the figures the statues and endlessly waiting in each portal. With the figures in place I also apply a bit of black wash on them too I wanted the statues to stand out a bit from the wall and not just disappear they’re inside the tunnel so what I’m doing is I’m adding a SMD a surface mount LED white in front of each statue so that will give the effect of having a bit of spot light on each of them so what I do first because I had these in my bin for a while so I teamed the terminals first no nice solder wires to the terminals like this so all of the terminals have their wires done just make two holes for the terminals through the styrofoam walk like this and just push that LED inside rates I had reduced the forward current on the LED a lot down to one about one milliamp to avoid it being too bright so I connect three of them in series each LED has a 3.2 volt forward voltage so that sums up to about 10 volt and then I add another a Serie resistor of three point two kilo ohm and that in total gave nice light now time to put the pillars in place and also the bridge spans I’m trying this it seems to be working out pretty well great now the bridge is taking shape for first time you can see what it will do but hey we’re missing the support pillars here I did trials on rectangular and square support pillars but I ended up with round like the Victoria viaduct in Washington so I’m making a a wooden template from four millimeter plywood to put in each side of the styrofoam block and then I cut it out with the styrofoam cutter the cutting process is somewhat not perfect so you need to sound this rounded pillar a bit afterwards when it comes to an engraving of rounded objects I prefer to make engraving like this I have a knife and and I just press that knife and making the lines stone lines first and then I do the engraving with engraving tool afterwards a lot of stones in these two as well for the rest I’m following the same process as I’ve did with the other parts meaning I put some plaster in the joints and the crevices and I’ll remove that plaster with a wetted sponge from the surface. leaving the plaster only in between the bricks or stones now I painted it gray I wait with the black wash because I want to put that on when I have it in place that is to get the same tone as the rest of the stone arch bridge and to let that black wash spill over also to the surrounding surfaces we need also to have that stone row on top to cover the joint between the plywood and engraved stone spans so preparing those in the same way glue them in place and fix them temporarily with pins until the glue has set now here comes the black wash a lot of details can be added to a bridge like this like railings of other things I’ll add details over time but the drain pipes I make those from 3 millimeter brass tubing I cut to length and paint him in a rust brown color I glued them in place using PVA all right we’re done the first locomotive over the bridge is the beautiful v5 it’s a diesel shunter manufactured by himself in Germany in the 70s the blue paint scheme seen here is characteristic for the 90s this super detailed model from ONE87 is for 2 rail DC and DCC systems only it comes equipped with the sound colder with authentic sounds sampled from the actual locomotive the detailing is just amazing the locomotive is powered by a foul harbour motor unless a built-in power pack to ensure smooth running even on dirty tracks. Visit ONE87 webpage for more information about this locomotive.